People asked me these questions constantly before I left, while I was there, and after I returned. Here's every one of them answered from real experience.
$1,995 AUD all-inclusive for my trip in November 2017. That covers return flights from Brisbane, 21 nights of accommodation (ranging $12-28 per night), all food, 7 train journeys, local transport, activities, visa, insurance, and miscellaneous expenses. Under $95 per day for everything. You could spend less if you stayed in dorms every night and ate only street food ($60-70/day). You could spend more if you wanted private tours and upmarket hotels ($150-200/day). But $95/day gave me private rooms in most cities, heritage palace stays in two, and freedom to say yes to everything.
It's complicated but manageable. Yes, incidents happen and women-only train carriages exist for a reason. But thousands of solo female travellers visit India yearly and have transformative experiences. My approach: dress conservatively, avoid being alone at night, trust my instincts, use a fake "I'm married" line, stay in guesthouses with other travellers, and tell my host where I was going each day. I had uncomfortable moments but never felt in genuine danger across 21 days. The key is going in prepared, not going in scared. Read my full safety section in Tips and Warnings for specifics.
No. English is widely spoken in tourist areas and by educated Indians across the country. You'll hit communication barriers with some street vendors or in rural areas between cities, but you manage with pointing, photos on your phone, and patience. Learning a few words helps: "namaste" (hello), "dhanyavaad" (thank you), "kitna" (how much), "nahi" (no). Indians appreciate the effort even if your pronunciation is terrible.
Probably, but maybe not severely. It varies by person and luck. My strategy: eat from busy vendors (high turnover means fresher food), avoid raw vegetables and salads, drink only filtered or bottled water, never accept ice in drinks, and bring activated charcoal tablets for when your stomach inevitably rebels. I got sick once in 21 days despite precautions. Others don't get sick at all. Others get sick multiple times. The food is worth the risk. Indian cuisine is some of the best in the world and you'd be robbing yourself to eat only "safe" hotel food.
Variable depending on route and train class. Delhi to Jaipur: 4-5 hours on fast trains, 12 hours on sleeper trains. Delhi to Agra: 3-4 hours express. Jaipur to Jodhpur: 5-6 hours. Udaipur to Varanasi: 13-15 hours overnight. Varanasi to Agra: 8 hours. The overnight sleeper trains (3AC class) are the sweet spot: you sleep through the journey and wake up in a new city. Bring earplugs, a sleep mask, and snacks. Train travel in India isn't something to endure; it's part of the experience. You meet people, see rural India from the window, and arrive feeling like you actually traveled somewhere rather than just teleporting between airports.
Yes, non-negotiable. I used World Nomads for $55 AUD covering 21 days. It covered travel delays, lost luggage, medical emergencies, and evacuation. When I got food poisoning, the insurance would have covered a hospital visit if I'd needed one. Medical costs in India are low compared to Australia, but an emergency evacuation or serious illness could cost thousands without coverage. Spend the $55 and don't think about it again.
October to February. Specifically November and December are ideal: warm days (28-32 degrees), cool nights (15-20 degrees), no rain, manageable crowds. January can get surprisingly cold in northern Rajasthan and Delhi (5-10 degrees at night). February starts warming up. March to May is increasingly hot. June to September is monsoon season: heavy rain, flooding, transport disruptions, humidity. I went in November and had perfect weather for the entire trip.
Two options. Online: Indian Railways website (irctc.co.in) or Cleartrip (easier interface, slight markup). You need an Indian phone number for the official site, which is why buying a SIM card at the airport before anything else is smart. In person: visit the "tourist booking office" at major train stations (Delhi, Jaipur, Varanasi all have them). Separate from the main booking hall, shorter queues, English-speaking staff. Book as far in advance as possible. Popular routes sell out weeks ahead during peak season.
Yes, but you sacrifice significant experiences. A 10-day version: Delhi (2 days), Jaipur (3 days), Jodhpur (3 days), return to Delhi and fly home. You get the core Rajasthan experience but miss the desert camping in Jaisalmer, the profound intensity of Varanasi, the romance of Udaipur, the surreal rat temple in Bikaner, and the Taj Mahal. If you have 14 days, add Varanasi and Agra. Varanasi is the one you'd regret missing most.
Seven separate lines operated by Flying Fox, getting progressively longer and faster. The final line is over 300 metres. You get harnessed by experienced guides, walk to a platform on the fort, and step off into open air. The first line acclimatises you. By the seventh, you're in freefall for 23 seconds with the Blue City of Jodhpur falling away beneath you. 1,700 INR ($26 AUD) for the full experience. One of the highlights of the entire trip. Book through the operators directly or your guesthouse.
Completely real. Approximately 25,000 rats live in Karni Mata Temple in Deshnoke, 30 minutes from Bikaner. You walk through barefoot (required). Rats are everywhere: on altars, running across your feet, eating blessed grain from priests' hands. They're considered sacred incarnations. It's surreal, uncomfortable, and genuinely one of the most perspective-shifting experiences available in Rajasthan. Entry is free, though donations are appreciated. About 1 hour is enough time.
The overnight version is. The day-only version is fine but you miss the best part: sleeping under the stars in the Thar Desert with the Milky Way overhead. Book through your guesthouse ($35 AUD for the overnight package including transport, camel, all meals, camping). Fair warning: riding a camel for 8 hours is genuinely uncomfortable. Your legs and back will hurt. But the desert sunset, the campfire dinner, the 3 AM Milky Way... worth the discomfort.
Overpacking. Trying to see too many cities and rushing through each one. Not hydrating enough. Trying to maintain Western expectations of punctuality and cleanliness. The travellers I met who struggled most were the ones who couldn't let go of control. India doesn't respect your schedule. Trains are late. Plans change. Stomachs rebel. The ones who thrived were the ones who said "okay, what now?" instead of "this wasn't supposed to happen."
Slow down. Stay longer in fewer places. Have chai with locals. Ask questions. Be present. That's where India reveals itself.
Not very, compared to a multi-day hike. You need to be comfortable walking 10-15km a day in 30-degree heat, climbing fort staircases (Amber Fort and Mehrangarh both involve serious stair climbs), sitting on trains for 8-15 hours, and generally being on your feet. No gym-level fitness required. If you can walk 15km in a day without complaining too much and handle some stairs, you'll be fine. The mental demand is higher than the physical: constant sensory input, decision-making in unfamiliar environments, and navigating uncertainty drain your energy faster than the walking does. Rest days help enormously.
Without hesitation. I'd go back tomorrow if I could. I'd stay longer in Varanasi, spend more time in Udaipur, maybe skip Bikaner and use those days elsewhere. But the route works, the costs are manageable, and the experience genuinely changed how I see the world, other cultures, and my own capacity for handling uncertainty. Twenty-one days. Eight cities. Under $2,000. No regrets.
Spices. Buy raw spices from local markets in bulk. Turmeric, cumin, chaat masala, cardamom, garam masala. It's cheap ($20 AUD for months' worth), it's useful, and every time you cook with them you're transported back to India. The smell of cumin roasting in a pan sends me straight to Chandni Chowk every time. Silk scarves from Varanasi are also beautiful and pack flat (200-500 INR for good quality). Avoid the jewellery shops that guides steer you towards: they're overpriced and the quality is suspect. The best souvenirs are always the ones that fit in your backpack and remind you of a specific moment.
Last updated: March 2026. All costs from November 2017. The Wild Logs Team.
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